Calvin Klein and the Male Body

Rivers of ink have been spent on the designer, the brand and their impact on advertising and culture. In fact, Klein authored one book himself in 2017. “An icon of minimalism, modernism, sexual provocation and androgyny (…)” writes publisher Rizzoli, “he went on to change the face of fashion, bringing his visionary minimalism to the fore and defining looks for generations.”

Mark Wahlberg and Kate Moss • Photo: Herb Ritts.

In this article, we’ll survey Calvin Klein’s underwear campaigns, from the 1982 launch with athlete Tom Hintnaus (shot by Bruce Weber) to the 2024 ads with Jeremy Allen White (shot by Mert Alas). Through the lenses of “iconic minimalism” and “effortless sensuality,” the tag line we find on the brand’s social media. Obviously, every photographer contributed his own vision and his own aesthetics: Weber, Herb Ritts and his iconic Mark Wahlberg ad (1992), Mert Alas and Marcus Piggott in recent years. But when we think CK underwear, we think of that Mark Wahlberg ad, referenced time and again in the Travis Fimmel campaign in the early 2000s (shot by Steven Klein); in the Matt Terry ads in 2013 and 2014 (Erik Torstensson); in the Justin Bieber ad in 2015. All daring, all sexually charged.

Justin Beiber • Photo: Mert an Marcus.

“Minimalism.” Most campaigns are shot in a studio, often in B/W, against a neutral backdrop which draws our attention to the male body. The opposite of –say– Dolce & Gabbana’s maximalism: CK favors clean lines, D&G complex story-telling. With a few exceptions: the New York roof top in the Jeremy Allen White ad, the rich colors in the 2019 Shawn Mendes ad (shot by Mario Sorrenti) or the 2016 Justin Bieber ad (Tyrone Lebon).

Jeremy Allen White • Photo: Mert Alas.

“Sensuality.” Here the adjectives ‘provocative’ and ‘controversial’ should replace ‘effortless.’ Because Calvin-Klein-the-brand knows what it’s doing: it’s selling sex, stripping down and eroticizing ripped actors (Jacob Elordi, Djimon Hounsou, Jamie Dornan, Michael B. Jordan, Aaron Taylor-Johnson), athletes (Freddie Ljungberg, Carlos Alcaraz, Romelu Lukaku, Son Heung-min), musicians (Maluma, Shawn Mendes, Jungkook, Mingyu). What’s CK’s idea of masculinity? How’ s the male body represented? With many of the patriarchal assumptions about it: musculature, power, agility (Aaron Taylor-Johnson’s acrobatics), size (of the bulge).

Aaron Taylor Johnson • Photo: Mert and Marcus.

Over the years CK ads have expanded their roster of stars and grown more racially diverse –the many South-Korean celebrities for instance. And some pride campaigns have experimented with different, more inclusive body types. But the Hintnaus/Whalberg archetype is driving sales still, fueling controversy and igniting desires.