The early days of hip-hop saw 70’s artists like Afrika Bambatta in wooden jewelry, dashikis and cowrie shells, followed by the lavish excess of the 80’s where big rope chains were worn by artists like LL Cool J (who paired them with Kangol hats) and Run-DMC (paired with Adidas suits). But by the 1990’s rap was experiencing a major shift in sound and style. A holy trinity of artists Biggie, Tupac and Snoop embodied this change –with chart topping music that was labeled “gangsta.” Their popularity—just twenty years into the inception of hip-hop—showed the Afrocentric and activist energy of original hip-hop on the wane.
This new crop celebrated thug appeal and the drag it required: baggy denim, sports jerseys, and athletic wear accentuated by bold, blingy jewelry. It was a vibe that would define and dominate hip-hop and its male artists until the early 2000’s.
Less than twenty years later, hip-hop has pivoted again: this time inspired by the rise of internet fame and the launch of social media. While this fresh generation is still about letting the choppers sing, flashing racks and dripping ice, it’s their fluid fashion that often takes center stage. The most avant-garde among them blur and ignore gender lines in a way never imaginable only a few decades ago. Below is a short list of five modern day hip-hop artists who are redefining the aesthetics of a genre –and a generation.
LIL UZI VERT
Unapologetic when it comes to gender nonconformity, Lil Uzi Vert has delivered barrier breaking sound and style since their debut. Singles like “Endless Fashion” smoothly showcase their distinct rap style while sharing a luxe list of brands they love –Junya Watanabe, Chrome Hearts and Cartheart. They’ve worn them all –including a preppy and pleated Thom Brown skirt suit, and everything from luxury purses from Goyard to a personalized Hermes Himalaya Niloticus Crocodile Birkin bag. Their fashion profile attracted Marc Jacobs, which recently selected the rapper as the face of their luxury bag campaign.
ASAP ROCKY
Silk Gucci scarves. Pleated Chanel skirts. Oversized Bottega Veneta bags. For the “Fashion Killa” known as ASAP Rocky, there are no boundaries in style. Almost immediately upon his debut in 2011, Rocky was hailed as the head –not just of his group ASAP MOB– but of a new tribe of cool kids who were emerging within hip-hop. Rocky’s effortless blending of luxury goods and streetwear combined with his total disregard for gender conforming fashion beauty notes has maintained his position as one of the leaders of the new age of rappers over a decade since he launched.
ASAP Rocky • Photo: Andrea Raffin/Alamy.
SKAIWATER
This UK Artist is making waves across the pond thanks to the single ‘miles,’ which went viral on TikTok three years ago. Skaiwater followed up the initial success with debut album Rave which featured artists like XLOVCLO, Prentiss and Lil Uzi Vert. This strong debut echoes equally strong style aesthetic: subtly blending laid back tees and crop-top sweaters customized with delicate accessories like fluffy bunny headpieces. At the very early stages of their career, this rising artist and fashion influencer is one to watch.
SAUCY SANTANA
Santana entered the industry in full glam mode! Launching in 2019 as a makeup artist for Miami rap duo City Girls, he put his skill set front and center when debuting as a solo artist. Flawless makeup, body-con dresses, long glam nails and thigh-high boots became his signature while promoting his first single, “Walk.” Just five years into his career his eye-catching aesthetic has garnered much praise —like landing Madonna as a guest on his track, “Material Gworrllllllll” and a groundbreaking role as ambassador for “Thread Beauty.”
LIL NAS X
His 2019 debut single “Old Town Road” launched Lil Nas X to the top of country charts, making him the first to cross such genres. His bold red carpet looks range from his initial hot pink cowboy suits and hats to metallic thongs by Dior Men, custom embroidered gowns by Donatella Versace and body-baring cropped tops with skirts, pushing the envelope for what even the boldest of today’s rappers are wearing today. His name is an amalgamation of some of rap’s most iconic names: Lil Wayne, Nas and DMX. But Lil Nas X is clearly in a lane all his own.
Lil Nas X • Photo: Sipa USA/Alamy.
TYLER THE CREATOR
Tyler the Creator has fused music and fashion in ways unseen since Pharell set fashion ablaze with his Billionaire Boys Club Streetwear brand in 2003. As the leader of rap collective, ODD Future, he blended horrorcore and transgressive lyrics within hip-hop and captivated a demographic coming of age on Tumblr and Myspace. Fans followed not just Tyler’s music, but his fashion, which prominently featured hoodies, tees and accessories by streetwear brands SUPREME. Capitalizing on this, he launched Golf Wang and Golf Le Fleur. Today both brands have become the uniform for Tyler’s fans, offering them easy access to streetwear luxe like cashmere sweaters beaded with pearls, tailored trousers and nail-polish. Along the way, Tyler appeared in a Gucci campaign and scored the soundtrack of the Louis Vuitton Menswear Show in 2022 – as well as designed a collection under Pharell Williams for Vuitton Men this year.
